“I’m Junda Khoo, the co-founder and executive chef of Ho Jiak,” begins Junda as he recounts his journey from a young boy in Kuala Lumpur to a culinary innovator in Sydney. Born into a family from Penang, Malaysia, Junda’s upbringing was immersed in the vibrant food culture of his home state. However, his move to Sydney at 16 unexpectedly shaped his future. After high school, he pursued further education in finance and IT and briefly worked in banking, but his love for food remained. So, he boldly decided to quit his job and dive into the food industry, starting with a cafe that sold coffee and bread. “I always knew that food was my passion,” he reflects.
This kickstarted his journey in the culinary world, leading him to bring the Papa Roti franchise from Malaysia to Australia. “My passion grew bigger and bigger,” he admits. “I was very homesick, and there wasn’t much Malaysian food you could eat here,” he adds. This longing for a taste of home drove him to establish Ho Jiak, which means “delicious” in Hokkien.
The Multifaceted World of Ho Jiak
There are four Ho Jiak restaurants in Sydney, each offering a unique aspect of Malaysian food culture. The one in Townhall features a playful and innovative menu that reinvents traditional dishes with a modern twist. On the other hand, the Chatswood and Haymarket branches serve family-inspired meals that evoke a sense of warmth and comfort, like that of Junda’s grandmother’s kitchen. The Strathfield outlet has a hawker-style menu that captures the lively energy of Malaysian street food markets. It provides an authentic street-side dining experience, bringing the vibrant flavours of Malaysian cuisine to Sydney.
Australian feedback on Malaysian cuisine has been overwhelmingly positive. He explains, “At first, there was a challenge with the perception of what authentic Asian food is. I focused on crafting delicious dishes, which won over our guests, regardless of their initial expectations of authenticity.” This approach has broadened Australians’ culinary horizons and built a loyal customer base that appreciates Ho Jiak’s genuine flavours and innovative dishes.
The upcoming Ho Jiak restaurant in Melbourne will have three levels with distinct dining experiences. The ground floor will serve hawker market staples; the middle floor will offer creative takes on familiar flavours such as laksa broth dumplings, and the top floor will feature a beer hall with large, shareable dishes.
Innovating Malaysian Cuisine in Australia
Junda’s approach to maintaining the authenticity of his dishes while adapting them to Australian tastes hinges on the fusion of high-quality local ingredients with traditional Malaysian spices and cooking methods. “The produce and ingredients in Australia are fresher, better, and more accessible,” he explains, adding that it allows him to elevate traditional dishes such as beef rendang.
His innovative creations, such as the char kway teow, aim to redefine what’s considered authentic by future generations. Dishes like grilled prawns with burnt butter showcase his talent for blending Malaysian flavours with Western techniques, offering a unique dining experience. “Our goal isn’t just to replicate traditional recipes but to make them resonate with our diners here,” he adds.
Junda also doesn’t shy away from adjusting the spiciness or oil content of his dishes to cater to dietary preferences. “It’s not about making everything traditional; it’s about making it delicious,” he explains. Examples of his playful reinterpretation of Malaysian staples include the “KFC rendang”, which turns a fast-food favourite into a culinary delight using traditional rendang sauce.
Collaborations and Community Impact
While Junda has not yet partnered with other Malaysian-run restaurants due to the similarity in offerings, he actively engages with a broader network of Malaysian businesses in Sydney. “We have a lot of Malaysian businesses that help us, like our vegetable supplier, who is also Malaysian. They support our events significantly, and I promote them on my platforms,” he explains.
Working closely with chefs from diverse backgrounds, Junda combines culinary ideas to produce something unique and engaging. “I have collaborated with several chefs, such as Manu Feildel and Dim Sim Lim, who bring their distinct style to our joint efforts,” he explains. These collaborations often result in innovative dishes and food events that merge different culinary traditions, showcasing the versatility and adaptability of Malaysian cuisine when combined with other global flavours.
In addition to creating new culinary experiences, Junda and his partners believe in giving back to the community. A recent initiative raised $6,000 to help those affected by the cost-of-living crisis. This commitment highlights his belief in food’s power to impact positively.
Spreading Malaysian Flavours and Wisdom
“I want to share Malaysian cuisine with the world, spread love, and educate people about our culture,” states Junda, who draws his pragmatic yet heartfelt philosophy on expanding his culinary empire from his roots and experiences. He advises other Malaysian entrepreneurs looking to start businesses abroad to leverage the hardworking ethos and community-minded spirit prevalent in Malaysian culture. “Apply the knowledge you have from your home country, but also adapt to the local context,” he advises, highlighting the importance of understanding and adhering to local regulations for sustainable success.
Under Junda’s innovative leadership, Ho Jiak has evolved into more than just a restaurant; it’s a cultural journey that connects diners with Malaysia’s rich culinary heritage. Khoo’s dedication to authenticity, creativity, and cultural promotion has placed Malaysian cuisine firmly on Sydney’s culinary map. Looking to the future, Junda remains focused on the day-to-day joys and challenges of his culinary enterprises while keeping an eye on long-term goals. “Every day is a blessing,” he concludes.
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